The Adventurer's Son Read online

  Epigraph

  Trial and error,

  Failure and terror,

  The truth of the matter at hand.

  Death in a whisper

  Is so much to weather

  For the life of a wife

  And her man.

  Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Epigraph

  Prologue: Family

  Part I

  Chapter 1: Usibelli

  Chapter 2: 10,910

  Chapter 3: Peggy Mayne

  Chapter 4: The Cornice

  Chapter 5: Cody Roman Dial

  Chapter 6: Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn

  Chapter 7: Umnak

  Chapter 8: Space Captain

  Chapter 9: Borneo

  Chapter 10: Gunung Palung

  Chapter 11: Jungles and Ice

  Chapter 12: Dungeons and Dragons

  Chapter 13: Big Banana

  Part II

  Chapter 14: Mexico

  Chapter 15: Guatemala

  Chapter 16: El Petén

  Chapter 17: Finding Carmelita

  Chapter 18: South to Costa Rica

  Chapter 19: “The Best Map Yet”

  Part III

  Chapter 20: “email, please!”

  Chapter 21: Dondee

  Chapter 22: The Corners

  Chapter 23: Carate

  Chapter 24: The Helicopter

  Chapter 25: Rio Conte

  Chapter 26: Jenkins

  Chapter 27: Zeledón

  Chapter 28: Cruz Roja

  Chapter 29: Whiteout

  Chapter 30: Las Quebraditas

  Chapter 31: Negritos

  Chapter 32: Piedras Blancas

  Chapter 33: Homefront

  Chapter 34: The Fellowship

  Chapter 35: Tree Fall

  Chapter 36: Foul Play

  Chapter 37: Peggy and Jazz

  Chapter 38: Cerro de Oro

  Chapter 39: Roman’s Route

  Chapter 40: Rio Claro

  Chapter 41: Back to Alaska

  Chapter 42: TIJAT

  Chapter 43: Carson

  Chapter 44: Kool-Aid

  Chapter 45: Pata Lora

  Chapter 46: A Backpack

  Chapter 47: Discovery

  Chapter 48: Sleeping in the Forest

  Chapter 49: Closure

  Chapter 50: Gather the Ashes

  Epilogue: Meat, Ravens, and Seeds

  Acknowledgments

  About the Author

  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  Prologue: Family

  Tide-pooling on the northern California coast, 1989.

  Courtesy of the author

  MY WIFE, PEGGY, bore our son, Cody Roman Dial, on February 22, 1987, in Fairbanks, Alaska. Peggy and I had met as teenagers there, a place that drew me for its prospect of climbing mountains, skiing glaciers, and rafting rivers. We purposefully raised Cody Roman and his sister, Jazz, in Alaska, exposing them both to natural history travel and wilderness experiences around the world. When he was six, Cody Roman and I hiked alone across sixty miles of an empty Aleutian island. When he was nine, we made a family trip to a remote national park in Indonesian Borneo, a life-changing experience in an amazing tropical rainforest. While activities like wilderness trips and travel in the developing world set him apart from many kids, Cody Roman played with Legos and video games, listened to indie rock, read Harry Potter, and attended public school as a normal kid from a close-knit family brought closer by nature and adventure. As a professional scientist and explorer, I included him in science and explorations as my favored and willing partner in both.

  At twenty-six, Cody Roman left graduate school in Alaska for three months on the East Coast, then six more in Latin America. He explored volcanoes, rivers, ruins, reefs, and jungles on his own and with other travelers he met along the way. As he traveled, he stayed in touch with friends and family, emailing plans, maps, and stories. Then in July 2014, while he was in Costa Rica—after sending details of a planned five-day walk, alone and off-trail—the emails ended abruptly. Alarmed and guilt-stricken, I fought down rising panic and rushed down to find his trail before it was too late.

  This book is the story of our lives and my search for my son. Some of the dialogue was unforgettable; some transcribed; some told as oral history for decades; some imagined. It has been a painful book to write: full of nostalgia, catharsis, sadness, longing, and struggles with guilt. But the story is an important one—the most important words I have ever written. I owe it to Cody Roman to get it right and true.

  Part I

  Chapter 1

  Usibelli

  Author and author’s uncle, Brian Decker. Rochester, Washington, 1973.

  Courtesy of the author

  In 1955, a sixteen-year-old girl named Linda Eklund left her family’s ten-acre farm near Rochester, Washington, to live in Seattle, probably to escape her stepfather, or maybe her mother’s gruff Germanic way. Linda met my father at twenty, fell in love, and gave birth to me at twenty-one. Four years later she had my sister, Tamara.

  “Was I a mistake?” I remember Tamara once asking.

  “No. Your brother was, though,” my mom quipped back. I thought through what it meant to be a mistake, feeling a bit of a sting. Sensing my disappointment, my mom went on: “But your dad liked him so much he wanted another one, and that was you, Tamara Dial.” My mom named Tamara after her best friend, who’d helped her get on her feet once she’d left home.

  My father named me after his uncles—Roman and Joseph, born in Poland—who’d been father figures to him on their farm in Enumclaw, east of Seattle. My dad never met his own father, nor, as a self-confessed city slicker, did he take much to the outdoors. After meeting my namesakes, who were somewhat distant and unaffectionate, I came to understand why my dad struggled as a father to me: he wasn’t sure how to be one.

  Like all boys, I was fascinated by my father and drawn to him like a moth to a bare bulb in the dark, watching and studying and learning what I could. The fondest memory I have of Bob Dial came from February 1970 when I was nine. My dad, a Ph.D. civil engineer who developed computer models to describe traffic flow, had taken a job in northern Virginia. While Tamara and my mom flew east to our new home in Falls Church, he drove our Shetland sheepdog, Brute, and me across the country in our Porsche Speedster.

  It was a marvelous trip, twisting down the Oregon coastline, under the California redwoods, over the Sierras and Rockies, then across the empty plains of Kansas and the flat hardwood forests east of the Mississippi. We talked and watched the continent roll by and sometimes he sat me on his lap to steer the silver Speedster down curvy country roads. That trip holds warm memories of my dad and we bonded then. Later I would learn that bonds need maintenance to endure.

  In May 1970, my parents bought me a ticket to Alaska, where I would stay with my mother’s brothers in Usibelli, a mining camp in the Alaska Range. At the time, the trip seemed a substitute for my friends’ adventures at summer camp. As an adult, though, it occurred to me that my parents sent me away while they struggled with their marriage. In my mom’s drawer of old photos, there are none of Bob Dial with our family after that summer. Tamara and I would see him only on weekends, when he was often late to pick us up. Sitting in our house, we waited, disappointed he was more interested in his life than in ours.

  The summer I headed to Usibelli, my parents’ problems were invisible to me, a little kid who knew only that Alaska would be even more exciting than his grandmother’s farm. My grandmother lived an hour and a half from Seattle, with a dozen head of cattle, pigs, rabbits, vegetable gardens, and blackberry brambles. Exploring the surrounding countryside and discovering its wildlife made
the zoo in Seattle feel like mere spectating. My uncles—Zinn and Brian—were kind to me, their big sister’s son, a skinny, precocious city kid with no common sense, as both were quick to remind me with a laugh. They taught me lessons about nature and life that no classroom or books could offer.

  After picking me up at the Fairbanks airport, Zinn drove south with me in the back seat, nose to the window, soaking in the view. It was my first trip to Alaska and already I was intoxicated by the midnight sun and the landscapes uninterrupted by buildings, fences, or anything man-made beyond the gravel road. Three hours later, he turned his Ford pickup off the Parks Highway and headed east toward Healy.

  Zinn drove slowly to keep the dust down as we passed woodlands of stunted spruce and dwarfed aspen covering the foothills of the Alaska Range. He guided the Ford across the one-lane trestle of a railroad spur leading to the coal mining district at Usibelli. I looked under the railroad ties at the bossy Nenana River, its glacial gray waters writhing, hypnotic and terrifying. Beyond the bridge the road twisted past soft cliffs smoking with burning coal seams. To the south, scabby peaks rose above pale tundra, their summits cradling winter’s lingering snow.

  My uncles lived and worked at the Usibelli coal mine. A collection of scattered sheet metal and wood clapboard buildings set among tractor-truck trailers, Usibelli itself was barely a company town for the Usibelli Coal Company. Both uncles worked long hours operating heavy machinery that stripped coal from rolling hills. While my mom had sent me there under their care, it was clear Brian and Zinn were busy. It would be up to me to entertain myself. Luckily there was plenty to do under the benign neglect of my uncles.

  Exactly nine years older, Brian shared my birthday. Kid-sized and kid-hearted, with bright blue eyes beneath brows that seemed always arched in amusement, Brian sometimes stuttered, but his staccato statements merely emphasized what he tried to spit out. Maybe because he was the baby in his family and I was younger—but old enough to be a brother—he introduced me proudly to his friends as “my little nephew.” Like Zinn, he often called me “Rome.”

  “Hey, Rome!” Brian grinned as Zinn carried my bags into Brian’s bunkhouse room my first night in Usibelli. “You can sleep here. Zinn and me gotta work tomorrow but we’ll try and take you out on Zinn’s Kawasaki this weekend.” Zinn, who had brought his wife, Faye, their three-year-old son, and infant daughter to Usibelli, stayed in a house next door. Faye was supposed to keep an eye on me, but she rarely did.

  Brian gave me a quick lesson on how to survive in the bunkhouse, empty all day while everyone was off stripping coal. “This here’s the oven. And here”—he opened the freezer—“are the Tater Tots. Just turn on the oven, put the Tots on the cookie sheet, and cook ’em up until you can smell ’em. Eat whatever you want, but don’t b-b-burn down the bunkhouse!” he instructed with a laugh. “Now, if you’re gonna leave camp,” he said, turning serious, “take Moose with you. See ya tonight, Rome!” And with that he left for work and I left with Moose to explore.

  Moose was the camp dog. Zinn claimed Moose was half wolf, and I believed him. His coat was thick, unlike that of any dog I had ever petted, and he was tall, with long, lanky legs and big feet on an otherwise German shepherd frame. He wagged his tail and looked at me with a dog smile when I rubbed his back.

  There were no computers or televisions in rural Alaska in 1970. In their place, I had books and a taxidermy correspondence course, a .22 rifle my uncles entrusted me with, and a Kawasaki dirt bike that was too big for me. The motorcycle’s front brake lever was broken in half, the result of a kick-start failure. To kick-start the bike required that I launch my skinny frame up with both feet off the ground, shove the kicker down with my right foot to fire the ignition, then engage the clutch and first gear, all before the bike fell over. It didn’t always get going in time. When it did, I toured the mining roads, thrilled to drive on my own; but I grew bored just zooming around.

  Most of my favorite explorations were on foot and off-trail with Moose out front. We pushed through willows and alders, rock-hopped, waded streams, and explored two nearby ghost towns called Suntrana and Lignite, where the coal had been mined out but the scent of diesel still lingered. Wood frogs waited in tundra ponds, magpies in shrub thickets, red squirrels in boreal woods. I carried Peterson’s field guides to identify the birds and mammals. The books nourished my dream of growing up to be a scientist; the nature near Usibelli gave my dream form.

  In early autumn, Zinn took me on a bowhunt for moose off the Stampede Trail. The midnight sun was gone and it got dark at night with the northern lights shimmering overhead. We left early to find a moose, and my toes didn’t thaw until the frost had melted off the red leaves of fireweed. I tried to be as quiet as I could, but Zinn looked back at me. “You sure are noisy, aren’t you?” His big fake teeth flashed in a smile. His real ones had been knocked out during a fight with his best friend.

  I doubled down on not stepping on any sticks, not brushing noisily against any bushes, and certainly not talking. I kept close behind, carrying Zinn’s eight-pound .30-06 rifle that he said we might need for bears. Zinn spotted a brown bulk that we stalked quietly together until he asked me to wait while he went ahead. I sat patiently cradling the rifle. Careful with its scope as Zinn instructed, I watched bugs crawl and leaves fall.

  Then Zinn appeared mysteriously out of the brush. “It’s a cow,” he whispered, aware there might still be a bull nearby. We could only take a male moose, so we continued our hunt until the pungent odor of high-bush cranberries hung thick in the woods. “Moose lay down now ’cause it’s too hot for ’em. We won’t have any luck. Let’s go back to Usibelli.” Zinn’s lessons were based on his humble farm roots and a trip sailing around the world in the U.S. Navy.

  Later that fall, near remote Cody Pass, Zinn got a bull caribou without me. He brought back its sweet-tasting meat and its antlers still covered in the short fur called velvet. Like skin, velvet has blood vessels that nourish and grow the antlers until they reach their full size. Then the bull scrapes the velvet off to display his white rack to cows and other bulls, or sometimes to fight for the right to mate.

  Zinn asked me to mount the antlers. My taxidermy course materials instructed that flushing them with gasoline would expel the velvet’s blood. I doused the furry horns in gas, worked dry preservative between the skull plate and skin, then fastened the rack to a plaque. For my flight home, we boxed the caribou antlers up with a big, black raven I had mounted: two priceless souvenirs from a summer of doing whatever I wanted, learning independence and responsibility.

  THE FOLLOWING SUMMER in Virginia, a friend’s dad took us to the Appalachian Mountains. We were going to climb Old Rag, a barren granite dome in Shenandoah. “There they are,” the father announced when the hills came into view. “The Blue Ridge Mountains!”

  “Those aren’t mountains!” I said, my appreciation for scenery forever spoiled by Alaska. “Those are just foothills. There’s not even any snow on ’em!”

  Pronouncements like that—and telling the kids at school about my summer in Alaska with a .22, a wolf-dog named Moose, and a motorcycle—didn’t gain me many friends. “Stop bragging, Roman!” they’d say. But their criticism never curbed my enthusiasm for Alaska, with freedoms and adventures impossible back east. My Alaskan experiences gave me the confidence to try anything and the strength to endure my parents’ breakup, which had begun with their separation in 1970 and ended in divorce four years later when I was thirteen.

  After my parents’ marriage ended, my mom married a gentle lawyer from Virginia named Lew Griffith. Although we never called him “Dad,” Lew was an excellent father figure to my sister and me. My mom and he nourished my preteen fascinations with milk snakes and plethodontid salamanders, steaming geysers, and sphagnum bogs. She even encouraged my suggestions for family vacations, where I chose the destinations and planned the trips.

  Informed by AAA maps and National Geographic articles, I charted far-flung natural history tours. With my
mom or Lew behind the wheel of the family station wagon, we made road trips in search of colorful amphibians in the Appalachians and insect-eating plants in southern swamps. We cruised summer blacktop at night across Arizona deserts looking for reptiles. My mother even drove Tamara and me across the country to my grandmother’s farm on a tour of national parks.

  Tamara usually stayed back at the motel pool or with my mom and Lew while I went to look for creatures alone or with Mike Cooper, my best friend, who often joined us on these trips. More interested in dogs and horses, Tamara shied away from the mud, bugs, and spiderwebs that we budding scientists were willing to endure.

  Back in the sixties and seventies a boy could still run off to play alone during the idyllic era between rural-agrarian America, when kids worked the land, and today’s suburban-urban America, when kids embrace indoor entertainment. The suburbs then, like Holmes Run Acres where we lived in Falls Church, often dovetailed with natural ecosystems. The Chiles Tract, the last large parcel of undeveloped land inside Washington, D.C.’s Beltway, was only two blocks from my home. I’d spend hours wandering its forests, creeks, and swamps, learning my way in the woods.

  Mike Cooper and I filled steamy terraria in our rooms with pink lady-slipper orchids and bright green sphagnum mosses we found in the Chiles Tract. Our bubbling aquaria housed red-spotted newts from the swamps and spotted turtles from the creek. After an escaped snake found its way into my mom’s underwear drawer, she reminded me politely but frequently to keep my bedroom door shut.

  Our mom valued education and sent Tamara and me to a small progressive private elementary school near our home, where sensitive science and English teachers leveraged my fascination with science and nature into essays and research projects for their classes. But as puberty advanced, my interests shifted away from the nurture of reptiles to the nature of girls.

  By my senior year in public high school, my participation in the adventure sports had eclipsed my studies of natural history. With its thrilling physical problem solving far above the ground, rock climbing engaged me most and I took up with two teens who climbed at a high standard: Dieter Klose and Savvy Sanders. After graduation, we three headed to Colorado in Dieter’s white Econoline van. I went farther, exploring the West by thumb and freight train, catching the ferry to Alaska at summer’s end.